Hey guys, i know this probably isnt the right spot for this, but its kind of just a general question, on my 1996 6.5L, i have one vacuum line right now, and that just controls the boost, well im looking to get a manual boost controler, which will eliminate the electronic module that makes the vacuum. so my question is, what will i hook a boost guage up to when i get a manual boost controler? i tried hooking a boost guage right up to the wastegate, and it just went up to 0psi and down to like 10 vac .. not sure it was heat soaked and not making any boost or what .. i did this a while back so i dont remember the conditions the motor was under ... but just let me know what your thoughts were because im willing to try anything at this point ...
Diesels dont make vacuum. They dont have any restriction in the intake like a gasser does, so therefore no vacuum is made. Im not sure why there would even be a need for an "electronic module that makes vacuum" on a diesel, aside from power brakes or something, but no electronic module would do that. If no ports exist on the intake manifold anywhere, you will have to drill and tap one for your boost gauge. How exactly did you hook the boost gauge directly to the wastegate?
well i just put a vacuum T in, and ran like 6' of line into the cab and put a boost guage in ... i never knew that diesels didnt make vacuum ... so all that this "module" does then is just opens and closes the wastegate by sucking/pushing air into the wastegate? i will take pictures tomorrow if your still confused of what i speak of ... so on a diesel motor, if you tap into the intake manifold when installing a boost guage, when you release off the throttle, will it just return to "0" or will it go into the "in hg"? guessing "0" but asking anyway ... thank you Fordcummins for that reply, i wasnt sure what i had to do to install a boost guage. but now i know.
Yes, the boost gauge will just go to 0, due to the lack of restriction through the intake. While I am by no means an expert, or even a novice with 6.5 TD trucks, my guess is that the module is just a means of sensing boost for the ECM.
I have just been told that the 6.5 might have a WG operated by vacuum. In other turbocharged setups, boost dictates when the wastegate opens and closes. So, to go back to your original question of where to tap in for the boost gauge, I would just drill a hole in the intake somewhere, and run the boost line to it. Sorry to throw you off......the vacuum operated WG is a rare bird in the turbocharged world.......you learn something new everyday
I have a 6.5TD so maybe I can help. The 6.5 uses a serpentine belt mounted vacuum pump. This pump is used to operate only one thing...the turbo waste gate. If you look on the drivers side valve cover you will see a small black box about 1in wide and 2in long. there will be 2 vacuum lines going in the same end and an electrical connecter going in the other. This is called the wastegate solonoid. It controls the boost for the turbo. The vacuum pump builds vacuum and sends it to the solonoid. the computer then tells the solonoid when max boost pressure has been reached and the solonoid opens and then in turn opens the wastegate allowing the extra boost to escape. Many people run manual waste gate actuators and then also completely remove the vacuum pump and lines. NOTE: this only applies to F series engines, the S series uses vacuum for the EGR as well. There will be 3 Solonoids on the drivers side valve cover if it is the S series and only 1 on the F series. F is the higher output engine used in most 8-lug 2500s and 3500s
right on, That does help alot. but where at on the front of the motor is this vacuum pump located at? i tried following the second hose from the solonoid but got lost when going around the intake manifold and a whole bunch of wires... if i cannot sell my truck before spring i hope to be adding an intercooler, boost controler, HO fuel injectors and a shocked ECM to give me some more power and will also be running an electric fan and removing AC, this vacuum pump and anything else that isnt needed. (AC is fully charged and still barely blows out cold so its not needed)
You are going to remove the A/C on a newer vehicle? Do you relize what that will do to it's resale value? Not very many people want a non A/C truck, much less a truck that had the PO remove it on purpose. If the A/C isn't blowing cold then somethng is wrong. A/C's are not complicated. They don't really have all that many parts. If you had a reputable shop recharge it and get it working then you simply need to take it back to them because it's not cold, thats their deal. If you did it yourself it sounds like you made a mistake. If the system is properly overhauled and charged AND is getting proper AIRFLOW across the condensor then it WILL blow cold, it has to. Unless something is defective of course. Anyway, I'm not telling you you have to spend money on it, I'm just saying that there is no need to remove it. I've many people that want to remove the A/C system....WHY? It hogs NO horsepower when the clutch is not engaged and the system doesn't take much room. IMHO, if you have no intentions to fix it, leave it so it doesn't drastically effect your resale value. Telling a potential buyer that it just plain "doesn't work" is ten times better than "I yanked everything out."
